This morning we trail the local Dingle area. This ensures that all riders are happy with their allocated horses. After a gathering of canapés and refreshments we head via Kilfountain River to the most westerly mainland point in Europe, Smerwick Harbour (the sight of much of the filming for Ryan’s Daughter). From here we can see also see Ceann Sibeal Sybil Head Tower. The Tower was built just before 1880 as a consequence of fear of an imminent Napoleonic invasion of England, using Ireland as a back door.  Riding down towards the ancient  Gallarus Oratory (a 12th Century church) we have magnificent views of The Three Sisters and Ceann Sibeal. Here we take the opportunity to explore Gallarus Oratory and also view an audio visual display of the surrounding Peninsula which we shall trail over the next 6 days. Gallarus itself is the best preserved early Christian church in Ireland. It represents the apogee of dry-stone corbelling, using techniques first developed by Neolithic tomb makers. Forging ahead we continue our trail on to Beal Bán beach to enjoy an exhilarating gallop before heading for Kilmackader through the beautiful countryside and green roads of the West Kerry Gaeltacht. 

After beginning the morning with a gallop on Muiríoch beach we head inland across the Brandon Mountain Range via a section of the Pilgrim’s Route. As we climb Mount Brandon, the second highest peak in Ireland at 3,123 ft (measuring second only to Carrauntoohil at 3,406 ft also located in Co. Kerry) we have spectacular views of the Dingle Peninsula, looking as far as the Blasket Islands and Skellig Rocks, as well as the Iveragh Peninsula and the Atlantic Ocean beyond. The terrain is challenging; at the highest point we cross the pass at 1,300 ft, but the horses are surefooted and take it in their stride. We continue down the mountain enjoying the vast panoramic views of Brandon Bay and its massive beaches. We head further on towards the quiet village of Cloghane via magnificent valley lakes and narrow, winding boheens, all overlooked by the magnificent Conor Pass. With an elevation of 410 m above sea level the Conor Pass is Ireland’s highest mountain pass. It was carved out of the cliff face during famine times. The views here are breathtaking, as the glaciated landscape of mountains and corrie lakes comes into view. Today there will be a fair amount of trotting, but the steep climb up and down means this ride also requires a slower pace as the terrain is taxing on both horse and rider. 

Day three is the most beautiful beach riding day of all as the beaches between Cloghane, Castlegregory and the Maharees were made for horse riding! We spend the day cantering along many miles of unbroken, largely deserted, wide, sandy beaches, stopping for lunch  in Castlegregory. In the afternoon we take on the beaches for gallops and further explore the surrounding area before crossing back from the southern side of the Peninsula to explore the Maherees (Irish: Na Machairí), a 5 km long ayre. The Maherees lengthy beaches on either side of its peninsula separate Brandon Bay on the west from Tralee Bay on the east. We have stunning views of the Maharees Islands, or ‘Seven Hogs’, from here. Oileán tSeannaig, the largest of the islands, contains remnants of an early Christian monastic settlement founded by St. Senan in the 7th century. Today we shall have covered many miles at a fast pace, and both horse and rider will deserve a well-earned rest.

We head for the east beach of the Maharees and go on to explore each of the peninsula’s sides. Much of Maherees is a sandy spit with sand dunes giving way to earth and rocky ground towards the northern end. These sand dunes create a unique ecosystem and are home to the rare ‘Natterjack Toad’, found locally in significant numbers. The area is also known for its countless lakes and Lough Gill is also a major breeding ground for the toad. Whooper swans and the Bewick’s mute swans also breed here. The peninsula shelters Fenit Harbour, the main port of County Kerry, from the large Atlantic swells, while the Brandon Bay beaches are openly exposed to the North Atlantic and receive long rolling swells which provide excellent surf. Later this afternoon we will ride into Camp village via Kilgobbin where we will prepare for our climb over the lowest point of the ancient Caherconree trail to overlook the Wild Atlantic Way.

From Camp village we head further out on the Dingle peninsula some 11 km west of Tralee to Derrymore (Irish: Doire Mór, meaning ‘great oak grove’).  Derrymore lies between the Slieve Mish mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. Its sandy shore area is a nature reserve supporting many rare plant communities and is an important high-tide roosting area for shore birds. After lunch we cross the Finlglas River on towards Cathair Con Rí via an ancient bog route with spectacular views over the Atlantic Ocean. We pass through Gleann Na nGealt, also know as ‘The Valley of the Mad’. Legend has it that its name is associated with ‘Gall’, a king of Ulster, who was cured of madness when he drank from the well and ate the watercress growing in its waters. Ancient history also tells of ‘Bolcan’ King of France who was also restored to full health when he drank from the well fleeing from the battle of Ventry harbour. Scientific studies of the well water have shown up high levels of metals including lithium which may in some way explain the supposed beneficial effects of the water. We will ride the surrounding lanes and bohareens which offer stunning views of Cathair Con Rí, Dingle Bay and the Ring of Kerry until we reach Inch Beach. Inch beach is a world renowned strand that attracts all types of sport enthusiasts. It is terrific for surfing, snorkeling, fishing, gliding, and of course horse-riding. However, the strand was first made famous for its part in the film Ryan’s Daughter. On arrival we head for spectacular gallops along its long sandy beach, followed by a quick dip to cool the horses after a long day. 

On our final day our special guide Eric leads us on an exhilarating ride through the dunes at Inch which feel like a roller coaster ride on horses. Fast trots and gallops through windy trails that make the heart race! This is where the fitness of our horses really shines; your mount carrying you effortlessly through these sandy hills and then happy to gallop endlessly on the beach. After a long lunch with lots of friendly banter Louise will lead us safely back towards our original destination. Being a local herself, Louise is gifted with her knowledge of the Dingle peninsula.  She guides us through the hills along the Dingle way, where we overlook the magnificent lake that lies under the Slieve Mish range and go on to explore Átha-na-Scáil, meaning in english the ‘River of the Hero’. The legendary hero being ‘Cú Chulainn’, whose grave is reputed to be on the side of the mountain above Droumavalla, north of Annascaul (birthplace of Tom Crean, the famed Antarctic explorer).  As we complete our ride, we will have covered many miles, had some fantastic riding and enjoyed the most spectacular views Ireland has to offer. Tonight the horses are boxed home from Minard Castle.  We all meet back at Dingle Horse Riding for conversation, libation and theorisation!